TASTING NOTE: 2010 Scarborough The Rebel White
Region: Columbia Valley, Washington
Price: $11.99 at Total Wine
Grapes: Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier
Sight: honeysuckle nectar
Smell: peach, pear, honeysuckle, pineapple
Taste: lemon candy, pears in syrup, buttercream, full-bodied
Overall: I probably love white Rhone blends more than anyone I know (see exhibits A and B)—saturated, perfume-bottle aromatics and a decadent, oily texture are a combination for the rich and powerful. Any combination of Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier is likely to leave you a lot like the way the air smells after a handsome man walks by wearing lady-killer cologne. (And people think only red wine can be sexy. PLEASE.)
This one in particular is out of Washington, and for reasons uncertain I’m not all too surprised that it veers more towards sweet than the other blends of this style that I’ve tried. The bouquet is an adamant introduction to an over-the-top floral arrangement studded with tropical and orchard fruits. After the wine swirls around the glass, it drips heavy, reluctant tear drops, more like oil than water. Over the palate, it stretches warmly (+13% ABV) and languidly with real weight to it—much like a good cuddle. The fruit turns a little candied, all the citrus is soft, and what smelled of fresh pear suddenly tastes like a pear poached in syrup. A creaminess exists, like a buttercream frosting—but if it’s possible for you to imagine, none of this is overwhelmingly sweet.
I really like it. Quelle suprise !